Why the aurora needs its own approach
The northern lights are faint, colorful and always moving. A bright, fast display can need only a couple of seconds, while a dim one may need much longer. Unlike stars, the aurora changes shape during the exposure, so long exposures soften its structure. The aim is to balance enough light with enough speed to keep some detail.
The settings below are written for Nikon DSLRs and Z-series mirrorless cameras, but the same principles apply to other brands. Menu names differ between models, so check your manual.
Starting settings
| Setting | Starting point |
|---|---|
| Mode | Manual (M) |
| File format | RAW (NEF) |
| Aperture | Widest available, around f/1.4 to f/2.8 |
| ISO | About 800 to 3200, raised if the aurora is faint |
| Shutter speed | Roughly 3 to 15 seconds, depending on brightness and movement |
| Focus | Manual, set on a bright star or distant light |
| White balance | Fixed Kelvin, often around 3500 to 4500 K, or adjust in RAW later |
| Image stabilization (VR) | Off on a tripod |
These are common starting values. Look at the test image and the histogram, then adjust.
Choosing shutter speed
Brighter and faster-moving displays favor shorter exposures, roughly a few seconds, which preserves structure and avoids a blurry, washed-out look. Dim displays may need 10 seconds or more. If you also want sharp stars, remember the 500 rule as a rough upper limit for a given focal length. Raising ISO is often better than going far past that limit.
Choosing a Nikon lens
PAA results ask which Nikon lens suits night skies. A wide, fast lens is the usual choice. Examples that photographers commonly use include the AF-S 14-24mm f/2.8G, the AF-S 20mm f/1.8G and the AF-S 24mm f/1.8G for F-mount cameras, and the NIKKOR Z 14-24mm f/2.8 S or Z 20mm f/1.8 S for Z-mount cameras. Your own budget and camera will decide what suits you. Camera lens basics explains the terms. A kit lens with an aperture of f/3.5 to f/5.6 can still work, but it needs a higher ISO or a longer exposure, which makes ISO noise or aurora blur more likely.
Focusing
Autofocus usually fails in the dark.
- Switch the lens or camera to manual focus.
- Turn on live view and zoom into a bright star or a distant light.
- Rotate the focus ring until the star is as small as possible.
- Take a test shot, zoom in, and confirm.
If you focus during the day, mark the position with tape, but still check at night. Do not trust the infinity mark.
Other Nikon settings to check
- Long exposure noise reduction: Turning it on doubles the time per frame, which can make you miss a fast-changing display. Many photographers leave it off.
- High ISO noise reduction: Often set to normal or off when shooting RAW.
- Exposure delay mode or self-timer: Reduces vibration at the start of the exposure.
- Monitor brightness: Lower it to protect your night vision.
- Remote release or intervalometer: Handy for sequences (see the time lapse tutorial) and for avoiding touching the camera.
Do the northern lights look better on camera?
Often, yes. A camera sensor collects light over several seconds, so it can show colors that your eyes see as pale grey or faint green. The aurora is often fainter to the eye than in photos, which is normal, though strong displays can look vivid in person as well. Photos taken with different settings can look noticeably different from each other.
Composition
Aim for a foreground such as a mountain, tree, house or lake. Include some of the sky and leave room around the lights. A wide lens lets you capture both the aurora and the scenery. Take both vertical and horizontal frames.
Cold weather
Batteries drain faster in cold weather, so carry spares inside a warm pocket. Let the camera adjust gradually when coming indoors, since condensation can form on cold equipment. Check the lens front for frost or fog, and use gloves with enough dexterity to operate the controls.
Planning
Aurora activity depends on solar conditions, and forecasts are only guides. Choose a location with a clear, dark northern horizon, and check cloud cover as well as the aurora forecast. Seasonal timing varies by latitude, so look up local information. Claims about a particular year being the best are difficult to verify, so rely on current forecasts instead.
Using a phone
Recent phones have night modes that can capture the aurora. Put the phone on a tripod or a stable surface, switch to night mode, and tap on a bright area to set focus. Results are generally less detailed than a dedicated camera but good enough for sharing.
Related reading
For more on adjusting settings in the dark, see the night photography settings guide and Milky Way camera settings.