What a long exposure does at night
A long exposure uses a shutter speed slow enough that moving things blur while still things stay sharp. At night this has two effects. It lets a camera gather enough light from dim scenes, and it turns moving elements such as car headlights, water, clouds or stars into streaks or smooth textures. Buildings, rocks and other fixed objects stay sharp if the camera does not move.
Essential gear
- Tripod: The most important item. Choose one that does not flex, and avoid extending the thin top leg sections or center column if you can.
- Remote release or self-timer: Prevents touching the camera at the start of the exposure. A 2 second timer is a simple substitute.
- Camera with manual mode: For direct control of shutter speed, aperture and ISO. Bulb mode is useful for exposures beyond the camera’s longest preset time, often 30 seconds.
- Lens: A wide-angle lens suits cityscapes and landscapes, but any lens works for the right subject.
- Spare batteries: Long exposures and cold weather use power quickly.
Starting settings
| Setting | Suggestion |
|---|---|
| Mode | Manual, or Bulb for exposures beyond the camera’s maximum |
| ISO | Lowest practical value to keep noise down; raise it if you need a shorter exposure |
| Aperture | Around f/8 for sharp city scenes; wider for dark landscapes |
| Shutter speed | From a few seconds up to minutes, depending on the effect |
| Focus | Manual, set in live view |
| Format | RAW |
The right shutter speed depends on the scene rather than a fixed number. Car light trails might need 10 to 30 seconds, depending on traffic. Smooth water often needs several seconds in dim light. Take test shots and adjust.
Step-by-step
- Mount the camera on the tripod and make sure it is stable. Hang a bag from the hook if the tripod has one and conditions are windy.
- Compose the frame and level the camera.
- Switch to manual focus and use magnified live view on a distant light.
- Turn off image stabilization on the lens or body, unless your manual advises otherwise.
- Set ISO low, aperture to your starting value, and pick a shutter speed.
- Release the shutter with the remote or timer.
- Check the image and the histogram, then adjust the shutter speed by one stop at a time.
Keeping highlights under control
At night, bright lights can clip quickly while the rest of the frame is dark. If streetlights are blown out, shorten the exposure, use a smaller aperture, or combine two frames later. Bracketing a few exposures one or two stops apart gives you options when you edit. See the best settings for night photography for more on balancing exposure in the dark.
Neutral density filters
A neutral density (ND) filter reduces light and allows long shutter speeds in brighter conditions, which matters mainly around dusk and blue hour. In full darkness, you usually do not need one, since the scene already forces long exposures. Strong filters can also make focusing and composing difficult, so set up before attaching them. For the daytime version of the technique, see long exposure photography in daylight.
Noise and long exposure noise reduction
Sensors warm up during long exposures, and noise can increase. Many cameras offer long exposure noise reduction, which takes a dark frame after the shot and subtracts it. It can help, but it doubles the time each exposure takes. Whether to use it depends on how many frames you plan to take. Some photographers turn it off and use software noise reduction later.
Creative ideas
- Light trails: Place the camera near a road and expose for long enough to record several vehicles passing.
- Smooth water: Longer exposures turn waves into mist or glass-like surfaces.
- Moving clouds: Streaks in the sky add direction to a night landscape.
- Light painting: Move a small light source while the shutter is open to paint a foreground. Keep movement steady and avoid shining light directly into the lens.
- Star trails: Exposures of many minutes, or many shorter frames stacked in software, show the stars’ apparent motion. If you want sharp points of light instead, use the 500 rule as a guideline for the longest practical exposure.
- Milky Way: This typically uses the opposite approach of a short enough exposure to keep stars as points. See Milky Way camera settings.
Troubleshooting
- Blurry foreground: Check for wind, a weak tripod, or touching the camera. Use the timer or remote.
- Soft corners: Stop down a little, and check for coma if bright points look stretched.
- Hot pixels or color specks: Noise reduction, or a dark frame, can help.
- Dim image: Open the aperture or lengthen the exposure by one stop at a time.