A starting point for Milky Way photos
Milky Way photography asks a camera to collect as much faint light as possible while keeping stars sharp. These settings are common starting points for a camera on a tripod. Adjust them to your lens, sensor and sky.
| Setting | Starting point |
|---|---|
| Mode | Manual (M) |
| File format | RAW |
| Aperture | Widest setting, or about one stop down if the corners look soft |
| ISO | Often between 1600 and 6400; test to find the best balance |
| Shutter speed | Based on focal length (see below), commonly 10 to 25 seconds with a wide lens |
| Focus | Manual, using a bright star in magnified live view |
| White balance | Fixed, often around 3500 to 4500 K |
| Noise reduction | Off for single frames; handle in software |
Lens choice
A wide, fast lens makes this much easier. Focal lengths of roughly 14 to 24 mm with a maximum aperture of f/2.8 or wider are widely used. A wide lens lets you use a longer shutter speed before stars begin to trail, and a wide aperture lets in more light. Lenses at their widest aperture can show coma in the corners, so you may choose to stop down slightly.
Shutter speed
The Earth’s rotation makes stars appear to move, so long exposures turn them into short streaks. The 500 rule divides 500 by the lens focal length (adjusted for crop sensors) to estimate a maximum time. For example, with a 20 mm lens on full frame, the rule gives about 25 seconds. On high-resolution sensors the stars may already look elongated at that length when viewed at 100 percent, so many photographers use a shorter time. Check a test frame zoomed in and shorten the exposure if needed.
ISO
The sky is dark, and high ISO is normal here. Start around ISO 3200 and look at the histogram. If the image is too dark, increase ISO or open the aperture. If it is too bright, or the sky glows because of light pollution, reduce the ISO. Many modern cameras are clean enough that a higher ISO is acceptable, but this varies by model.
Focusing
Autofocus rarely works on stars. Instead:
- Turn on live view and set the camera to manual focus.
- Aim at a bright star or planet and zoom in on the screen.
- Turn the focus ring until the star is as small as possible.
- Take a test shot and zoom in to confirm.
Check focus again if the temperature changes a lot or if you bump the lens.
White balance and file format
Shoot RAW so you can adjust white balance later. If you want a consistent preview on the screen, set a fixed Kelvin value. A cooler value gives a deep blue sky, while a warmer one reduces the blue tint. Try a few settings while on location.
When to shoot
The Milky Way core is only visible from many northern locations during part of the year, often from spring to early autumn, and its position changes through the night. The darkest results come from a moonless night, away from city lights. Astronomy apps and planning tools show the position of the core for a given date and place. Check the moon phase as well as the weather before you head out.
Where to shoot
Dark skies matter more than any setting. Light pollution maps help you find a site with a low sky brightness. Many photographers drive an hour or more from a city. Also look for a foreground such as a tree, a building or a lake, since a sky alone makes a less interesting image.
Aspect ratio and orientation
PAA results ask whether 16:9 or 4:3 is better. It depends on the composition. Shooting RAW at the sensor’s native ratio keeps options open, and you can crop later. Vertical frames can show more of the arch of the galaxy, while horizontal frames suit panoramas and wide landscapes.
Phone cameras
Recent phones include night modes that take multiple frames and combine them. Prop the phone on a tripod or a stable surface, and use the night or astro mode if your phone has one. Results vary by phone model and sky darkness, and the Milky Way is often faint in phone images unless the sky is very dark. Dedicated cameras with larger sensors generally capture more detail, but phones can still produce fun results.
Common problems
- Streaked stars: Shorten the shutter speed.
- Soft stars: Re-check focus, or stop down slightly.
- Noisy sky: Take several frames and stack them, or apply noise reduction in software.
- Flat, grey sky: Light pollution may be the cause. Some photographers use light pollution filters; see astrophotography filters for DSLRs.
- Blown-out foreground: Take a separate, longer foreground exposure and blend it in editing.
For broader guidance on dark scenes, read the best settings for night photography.