What a rolling shot is
A rolling shot (or roller) photographs a moving car from another moving vehicle. Because both vehicles travel at about the same speed, the car stays relatively sharp while the road and background streak and the wheels show rotational blur. It is related to panning, except that you are moving too.
Safety and legality first
Rolling shots can be dangerous. A few conservative principles:
- Arrange a closed road, private track or quiet location when possible. Public roads carry real risk and may have laws that apply to this kind of activity.
- Never lean out of a vehicle in an unsafe way. Stay seated and belted, and let the driver focus only on driving.
- Agree on hand signals or radios beforehand. Do not use a phone while driving.
- Consider a spotter and keep speeds modest. Local laws and insurance rules vary, so check them.
No photograph is worth an accident.
Starting settings
| Setting | Starting point |
|---|---|
| Mode | Shutter Priority or Manual |
| Shutter speed | About 1/30s to 1/60s |
| ISO | Lowest practical (ISO 100 to 400 in daylight) |
| Aperture | Whatever exposes correctly; often f/5.6 to f/11 in sun |
| Autofocus | Continuous (AI Servo / AF-C), single point or small zone |
| Drive mode | High-speed burst |
| Stabilization | Try it on or in a panning mode, then compare |
| Focal length | Fairly wide, such as 24mm to 70mm |
These are common starting points from photographers’ guides, not fixed rules. Results depend on vehicle speed, distance and how steady you are.
Shutter speed and wheel blur
The shutter speed has to be slow enough that the wheels visibly rotate and the road streaks, yet fast enough that the car body stays sharp. If the wheels look frozen as if parked, slow the shutter. If the whole car is soft, speed up the shutter or hold the camera more steadily. Try a set of speeds, such as 1/80s, 1/50s and 1/30s, in the same session to see which suits your technique.
Use the lowest ISO and a smaller aperture to allow slow speeds. In very bright light, a neutral density filter may be necessary, while a circular polarizer can cut reflections on paint and glass.
Focus and drive
Use continuous AF with a small area, aimed at a stable point such as a headlight or badge. Shoot in bursts and take many frames per pass, since vibration makes many unusable. Keep your elbows in, and brace against the vehicle if it is safe to do so.
Setting up the shot
- Match speeds. Lower speeds are safer. Some guides suggest moderate speeds on back roads, but safety and legality come first.
- Keep the distance steady. The driver of the subject car should hold a consistent position.
- Choose angles. Shooting from slightly ahead, behind or beside the car changes how it appears. A low viewpoint adds drama.
- Pick the background. Curving roads, trees and scenery blur well. Dull backgrounds do not.
- Plan the light. Low sun, golden hour or overcast skies suit slow shutter speeds and soften reflections.
Troubleshooting
- Car too soft: raise the shutter speed, shorten the distance, or hold the camera more steadily.
- No road blur: slow the shutter or use a wider lens.
- Wheels frozen: use slower shutter speeds.
- Wheels too blurred: speed up the shutter slightly.
- Focus misses: reduce the AF area and keep it on one point.
- Reflections: add a polarizer or shift position.
Related techniques
For stationary-camera tracking of vehicles, see panning photography settings. For more general advice on frozen motion, read our action photography guide.