Can infrared photography see in the dark?
Not in the way many people expect. Infrared photography at night usually means recording near-infrared light, the part of the spectrum just past red, from sources that exist in the scene. It is not the same as a night-vision device, and it is not thermal imaging, which detects heat at much longer wavelengths.
At night, streetlamps, city lighting and moonlight can all emit light that a camera set up for infrared may record, along with ordinary visible light. If a scene has very little of either, a camera will not magically reveal it. You still need a long exposure and some light to work with. If you are new to the basics, start with our infrared nature photography guide, which explains how cameras record infrared in the first place.
Where the light comes from at night
How much infrared a lamp gives off depends on its type. Some older lighting types emit plenty, while many modern LED lights emit little infrared. That means results vary between cities, streets and even individual lamps, so a quick test shot is worth more than a prediction.
Night infrared images commonly show unusual, two-tone or sci-fi colour effects, especially with shorter-wavelength filters. Artificial surfaces, windows and plants can all react differently, so scenes with foliage under lamps often look striking.
Gear
Camera
A converted or full-spectrum camera is generally the most practical choice. With an unmodified camera, the internal hot mirror blocks most infrared and a dark lens filter blocks more, so exposures can become very long. For night work that usually pushes things beyond what is comfortable, so stock cameras are better suited to daytime tests.
Filters
Shorter-wavelength infrared filters, roughly in the 550 to 720 nm range, let in more light and keep some colour, which is why they are commonly suggested for night scenes. Very dark filters such as 850 nm let in much less visible light and can be hard to use after dark, so they are less common for night work. Flare-sensitive lenses may also show more artefacts with strong lights in frame.
Support
Bring a sturdy tripod and use a remote release or the self-timer. At night, exposures run long, and any shake softens the image.
Exposure starting points
These are starting points only (our night photography settings guide covers the visible-light equivalent), and your results will depend on the lighting, the camera and the filter:
- ISO: a moderate range such as about 800 to 1600 is a commonly suggested starting point. Lower if the scene is bright, higher only if noise is acceptable.
- Shutter speed: exposures of several seconds up to around 30 seconds are typical for dim scenes, as covered in night long exposure techniques. Use the camera’s bulb mode for longer.
- Aperture: a moderate or wide aperture is a reasonable start. Check for hotspots, and stop down slightly if you see them.
- Format: shoot raw so you can fix the unusual white balance later.
Take a test frame, then adjust. If you are not sure how aperture choice affects bright lights, the starburst effect guide explains how small apertures turn lamps into stars.
Focus and lens hotspots
Focusing in the dark is hard enough, and infrared adds focus shift on top. Use live view, zoom in on a bright, distant light, and focus manually. If your converted camera has been calibrated for your filter, autofocus may be more reliable, but verify with a test shot.
Some lenses produce a bright central smudge in infrared, known as a hotspot. If you see one, try a smaller aperture or a different lens. Testing a few lenses before a night out saves frustration.
Composition and subjects
Look for lit trees, parks, streets with mixed lighting, reflective water and buildings with lit windows. Include foreground interest, since the sky will often be dark. Windows and glossy surfaces can reflect lamps, so shift your position if you see unwanted glare.
Processing
Night infrared files can look very red or magenta at first. Correct white balance, then consider swapping red and blue channels for a more natural or surreal palette. Check the histogram and recover highlights around lamps, and apply noise reduction in shadows, since high ISO and long exposures tend to add noise.
Night vision cameras and blocking them
Some people ask how to block a night-vision camera. Those devices typically work with their own infrared illuminators, and there is no simple, reliable consumer method to guarantee blocking them. If this is a privacy concern, practical steps include moving out of view, using physical barriers, or discussing it with the owner or the relevant authority. Please follow local laws and avoid tampering with equipment that belongs to others.
FAQ
Can infrared see in the dark?
Infrared photography records near-infrared light that is present in a scene, such as from lamps or moonlight. It does not see in complete darkness, and thermal imaging is a different technology.
What is the best ISO setting for nighttime photography?
There is no single best value. For infrared at night, ISO 800 to 1600 is a common starting point, then adjust for noise and brightness using your histogram.
What is infrared photography?
It is photography that records light just beyond visible red, usually with a converted camera, an infrared filter or infrared film. The results often show pale foliage and unusual colours.