What thunder photography really means
Thunder is a sound, so it cannot be photographed directly. When people search for thunder photography, they usually mean photographing thunderstorms: the towering clouds, the rain shafts, the dramatic light and, of course, lightning. This guide covers the whole storm. For exposure details on bolts specifically, see our camera settings for lightning photography.
Safety and the flash-to-bang count
Storms are the one subject in photography where the risk is real. Weather agencies commonly advise that if you can hear thunder, lightning may be close enough to be dangerous, and that the safest place is inside a substantial building or a hard-topped vehicle.
A common way to estimate distance is to count the seconds between a flash and its thunder. Sound travels roughly one kilometre in about three seconds, or one mile in about five seconds. Use this as a rough guide only, not as a sign that you are safe at any given distance.
- Do not stand outside holding a tripod in an active storm.
- Avoid open ground, hilltops, isolated trees and water.
- Be careful of flooding, hail, strong winds and falling branches.
- Leave early when conditions turn.
Planning and forecasting
Good storm images usually come from preparation.
- Check local forecasts and radar for the timing and direction of storms.
- Look for storms that approach rather than sit directly overhead, because a distant storm gives you room to compose.
- Scout a location in advance with a clear view of the horizon, a safe place to park, and a foreground such as a field, skyline or lake.
- Arrive early. Storms can move quickly.
Where to shoot from
Shooting from inside a car, a covered porch or a window gives you protection and a quick exit. A distance of several miles from the storm often lets you see the whole structure, including the base of the cloud, the rain shaft and any lightning. Telephoto lenses help isolate details, while wide lenses capture the full sweep of the sky.
Subjects beyond lightning
- Shelf and roll clouds: Low, wedge-shaped bands at the leading edge of a storm.
- Rain shafts: Dark columns of falling rain, which look striking when backlit.
- Mammatus and anvil clouds: Often visible as the storm passes.
- Silhouettes: Trees, barns or buildings against bright cloud edges.
- Reflections: Puddles and lakes mirror stormy skies.
Camera settings overview
- Use a tripod when possible, especially at dusk and night.
- In daylight, start with aperture priority or manual mode, ISO 100 to 400, and an aperture around f/8 to f/11 for general sharpness.
- Storm skies can be dark and contrasty. Check the histogram and consider exposing for the bright cloud edges to protect highlights.
- Shoot RAW to keep more detail in highlights and shadows.
- At night, use long exposures as described in our lightning settings guide.
Protecting your gear
- Bring a rain cover or a simple plastic sleeve, and a lens hood to keep water off the front element.
- Carry several microfiber cloths. Rain droplets on the lens ruin shots.
- Wipe the camera down afterwards, and let it dry before storing it in a bag.
- Moving from cold, damp air to a warm room can cause condensation, so let the gear adjust gradually, for example by keeping it in a closed bag.
Post-storm light
Storms often end with some of the best light. Low sun beneath the cloud edge can create warm light against dark skies, and rainbows may appear opposite the sun. Stay safe and stay alert, since lightning can still strike after the rain eases. For misty conditions that sometimes follow storms, see our fog photography guide.
FAQ
Can you photograph thunder? Not directly, since it is a sound. You can capture the storm that produces it.
What is the best time to photograph a thunderstorm? Late afternoon and evening storms often combine dramatic clouds with lower-angle light, but any storm can work if conditions are safe.
Do I need weather sealing? It helps, but it is not a replacement for a rain cover and caution.